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Guide

Which ride profile should I choose?

Sport, touring, commuter, or custom — each profile shapes the score around how you actually ride. Here's how to pick the one that fits.

· 5 min read

The same road can be a 92 or a 68 depending on who's riding it. That's not a bug — it's the whole point of the ride profile system. MotoScore™ scores roads across several factors, and each profile emphasizes different ones so the final number reflects what you actually value. This guide walks through the built-in profiles, what each one optimizes for, and how to spot which one fits.

The factors, briefly

Before the profiles make sense, you need the factors. MotoScore scores every route across:

  1. Curvature — how twisty the road is overall
  2. Turn Severity — how tight the individual corners are
  3. Elevation Change — climb and descent along the route
  4. Surface Quality — paved vs. gravel vs. rough, drawn from OSM surface tags
  5. Flow — how uninterrupted the ride is
  6. Traffic — current road congestion
  7. Vertical Exposure — drops, ridges, and open space alongside the road

A separate Altitude Ceiling bonus adds an extra boost for the highest point the route reaches.

Every profile uses all these factors, but each one emphasizes different ones. Here's what each profile optimizes for.

Sport

Who it's for: riders on sport bikes or nakeds who want technical roads — tight curves, quick elevation changes, and clean tarmac.

What it optimizes for: technical riding. Curves and tight corners drive the score; clean pavement is required, not optional; views and altitude are nice extras but not the point.

Typical "excellent" score: a sport rider's 90+ is a 30-mile canyon road with sustained sweepers, switchbacks, and grippy pavement. Think Deal's Gap, Mulholland Highway, or Highway 1 in the San Gabriels.

When sport scores badly: a rough, unpaved loop will score very low, even if the riding is spectacular. Long scenic highways with modest curvature also underscore.

Touring

Who it's for: riders on sport-tourers, baggers, and big standard bikes who want long days with variety — some corners, some miles, big views.

What it optimizes for: balance. Touring pulls meaningful contribution from almost every factor — curves, climbs, surface, flow, and vertical exposure all matter without any one dominating. It's the most even-handed profile, which is why it ships as the default.

Typical "excellent" score: the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Million Dollar Highway, Going-to-the-Sun Road. Routes that combine corners, climbs, views, and altitude. Touring is also the profile most likely to score mountain passes in the 90s.

When touring scores badly: short, tight canyon roads with no elevation or view will score mid-70s — great technically, but the profile is looking for more than just corners. Flat straight roads through farmland score low.

Commuter

Who it's for: riders whose main question is "what's the least painful way to get there?" — daily riders, all-weather commuters, anyone optimizing a route they ride often rather than a weekend escape.

What it optimizes for: flow and predictability. Uninterrupted progress and light traffic drive the score; curvature and dramatic terrain barely register. A commuter route that scores well is one you can ride day after day without it grinding on you.

When commuter scores badly: a tight, technical canyon. Great fun on a Sunday, but not what you want threading to work in the rain on a Tuesday.

How the same road scores differently

A concrete example: the Peak-to-Peak Scenic Byway in Colorado (Central City to Estes Park, about 55 miles).

Same road, different profiles, different results — and each one is correct for the rider it's built for.

Custom — and when to use it

If you've read the built-in profiles and none of them quite describe how you ride, custom is for you. Common reasons to go custom:

Custom lets you directly set how much each factor contributes to the score. You can save multiple named custom profiles — many riders keep one for sport-touring weekends and another for long-distance touring weeks.

If you're going custom for the first time, start from the closest built-in profile and tweak one factor at a time. That's covered in more depth in the custom profile guide.

How to pick the right profile

If you're not sure which to start with, three questions usually settle it:

  1. What kind of bike do you ride most? Not aspirationally — actually. A sport-tourer is touring territory, not sport.
  2. Is the ride itself the point, or are you mostly getting somewhere? If you mostly need to get there — daily, in any weather — lean commuter.
  3. Do you prefer carving corners or eating miles? Corners → sport. Miles (with good scenery) → touring.

Start with the profile the answers suggest, score a road you already know well, and see if the number matches your gut. If it doesn't, try a different profile on the same road. Once you find the one where the scores feel right on roads you know, you've found your profile.